So I went to Moscow last week. Learned lots of things, among them the depth of my unwarranted prejudices, as the city felt much more familiar than I'd have guessed. On the bridge where Nemtsov was shot, there was a sea of flowers. The more experienced travellers to Russia who were with us were shocked at the extent of the open protest, and it seemed that so were many of the citizens passing by. This is right next to the Red Square, and the outpouring of support for the opposition seemed quite unique. Many of the signs among the flowers presented plays with words. This was the most common slogan: Net slov, which means simply 'no words'. Whoever found the red pen did come up with some words, however: "You can't shoot everyone". This one plays with his first name. BOPNC is "Boris", but adding the b in the end softens the end of the word and transforms it into an imperative: "Fight!" And this one, of course, plays with another recent international slogan. This one just says "Propaganda kills." The flowers just go on and on along the whole bridge... ...right up to this juxtaposition of the Russian flag with what might be both a Russian bear, and at once a teddy left on a grave by mourners.