Ask the Techman

First...no, I'm not drunk.

Second...here's everyone's chance to ask me...the Techman... about those niggling little tech questions that have been plaguing the backs of their minds about what they drive, what they've seen driven...what makes locomotives move...what makes those haul strip mine trucks move...etc.

And no...I don't know the meaning of life.

The automatic transmission in my truck occasionally gets stuck in first gear, pull over, kill the engine, and start over, and it will shift fine.

Run it till it dies, or install Windows Vista?

Faulty pressure switch...I'm guessing, since you didn't include make/model/year...which would have been good...but if you drive a late-model computer-shifted transmission, this is the default cause.

And don't go near Vista.

1995 K3500 4x4, 350, and the one with the crappy door handles... oh wait...

Yeah...pressure switch.

If you've ever seen the insides of the old trannys, the shift rod pushed a valve back and forth...these days it's a big switch that controls the computer and shifting is done by a series of pressure swtiches...they go bad, now and then....the first/reverse switch for that clutch pack is usually the first one...no idea why.

That big switch on the side would be the next suspect, but when it goes fubar, it usually interferes with the neutral safety feature.

Some fun ensues unless fixed.

What's a reasonable price to fix a six inch long, two inch wide scratch on my rear passenger door? It's mostly superficial, but there might be some metal peeking through.

Assume it's done by a pro who will do a good job.

Never assume...and I'm a little fuzzy on body work, as you can probably glean from the paintwork I did on my truck.

Doesn't seem major.

I, on the other hand, am very familiar with body work. Depending on the color, anywhere from $200-$500.

I think I spent $50...looks rather good, if I do say so...if a little redneck.

Nothin' wrong with lookin' redneck. I'd make that truck look good.

How?

I kinda like olive drab...have since I was a lad.

I've been hunting about for a bar to stick behind the cab...to mount more lights.

May have to fab one.

Two questions?

Must I lecture and spew tech trivia till my fingers bleed?

My car's dashboard and steering wheel vibrate (easily visible vibrations) when it's turned on and parked, just sitting there. Is that bad? Lethe noticed it and kinda went "What is that vibration?"

2001 Ford Focus.

If the engine is running, it's probably nothing to be worried about...but if it seems excessive, it might need minor attention in the form of a tune-up.

Try running some stuff called Sea Foam through the gas for a tankful or so...NAPA part no. SF16.

I know this seems a Green Room thread, but bear with me...once the Brits wake up...

I've heard pro and con on those additives to the gas tank.
Are there any out that absolutely should not be put in the tank?
Are there any that will void a manufacturer's warranty even if they are safe or at least not harmful?

Oh and when I stop at a red light, a smell of oil or something just gets into the cabin. If I push that little button that seals off air from the outside, the smell doesn't get in. No problems with the muffler. Guys at the shop didn't find anything wrong with the oil or related oil stuff... parts... whatever.

Octane boosters are more or less worthless and usually just detergent-laded alcohol...the brand called HEET is only useful in Winter, and then not especially...it's more of a physiological thing as modern car's fuel lines do not freeze and refineries change the gas blend in the fall, anyway.

The Sea Foam I mentioned above works to clean the crap off the injectors...and works rather better than most. I use it in my Danger Ranger and it purrs like a big olive drab kitten. I have sequential port fuel injection...means I have one injector per cylinder rather than a carburetor.

That's the stuff!

Very good...I'm impressed.

Minor oil leaks and so forth...unless you see drippings or smoke, just get used to it...it's an internal combustion engine that burns petroleum products...it's gonna smell a bit with age. Try pressure washing the engine.

That button you are pushing is the recirculation control...switches back and forth between the outside air and the inside.

I'm still here...if I decide to hit the sack, you're SOL till morning.

What's it like to have sex with MM?

Is there bondage involved?

Merits of German, American and Asian cars compared to each other?

What are the signs of air in one's brake lines?

Depends, as on any other product, on who makes 'em.

The Japs aren't heavy into R&D...they take the basics and refine them, which is why their stuff is more durable, though Honda had troubles, back in the late 70s, with corrosion...the drive trains were bullet-proof but their bodies rusted to powder before 70K miles.

Krauts over-engineer. Their stuff has too many gee-whiz crap that can go wrong, which it fortunately doesn't as often as American crap. Parts are dear and they are slow to release the patents for aftermarket.

Our stuff...is just pitiful...don't buy anything GM and be leery of Daimler-Chrysler as they just sold out. For a truck, Ford is a good bet, especially if you want a 3/4 ton...but the Tundra has the half-ton market.

The brake peddle travel with be excessive and will feel like theres a banana under your foot. Lots of air will trigger the splitter...commonly called a "proportioning valve"...and the brake light will come on.

With ABS, this is a bit different...but not a lot.

Who said Tundra was a real truck? I still prefer FORD on price and workhorse here.

As do I...but the market shows the facts.

Yep, the market shows people are not always smart.

Maybe...but the things are pretty durable.