If so I could use a little help here. My windshield wipers have died on me (again). I have to replace a circuit board called "wiper pulse module" and I can't find it for the life of me. this is what it looks like http://www.carpartswholesale.com/wholesale/wipers/chevy-truck-9466089.html Its an easy fix, only problem is that I dont know where it is. Here is an internet photo of another 95 chevy van very similar to mines. Anyone have any ideas of where this module might be?
I drive a 95. I also have a service manual. Pretty sure it's well under your dash roughly behind and above the climate control panel mounted to the wiper motor. Let me see if I have the book in my van. Edit: nah, sorry, it's at the shop. You've got your work cut out for you but it's not too bad. I know how I'd do it but there may be another option to pulling the dash, I'll look into it. It's pretty tight getting up there from the floorboard just to get a hand on it let alone replace it. I usually just pull the dash but there's a procedure that needs to be adheared to or inproper alignment of the ac/heat ducts will happen. I'll get back to this tomorrow with a step by step. You can do it. Meanwhile consider looking into a new/rebuilt motor, it's good insurance from having to do this again.
Ok, looks like it can be done without pulling the dash as I suspected via the radio hole, but the radio will have to come out. Earlier models didn't have this option because of that type of radio being the two hole/faceplate variety. When they went to the blackface in them in iIrc '90, it opened up the dash for easier access to components inside. Be careful on the plugs on the back of it, they have latches to hold them in place so they won't vibrate out. All plugs in the harness have some sort of latching device so be careful. I'm not going to take for granted your level of expertise, I'll spell it out from start to finish so pull up a chair and a notebook, or print it out if you like. These instructions are for a stock model, any additional items in play due to a custom package with wood and such will have to be adjusted for and probably won't really come into play but just so you know in some instances items have to be removed. Your radio opening may have such aftermarket trims but they should be removable. General view photo into the cab area for others who want to play along. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/g30vanman/Van Pics/95 GMC/1PC190016a.jpg I'd bust out the camera and do a step by step but the laptop won't run my camera software and it's a pita atm to set up the network due to time constraints. Ok, let's begin. Music of your choice is optional, thoughtful is better than headbanging but ymmv. Go ahead and read through all of this and take note it contains precautionary items to take heed of. Probably best to go ahead and pull the negative cable from the battery. General tools required: If you have a 1/4" set, bust it out. Phillips screwdriver, long is better. Standard straight slot driver, nothing fancy needed, just for a pry here and there. T-15 torx driver or equivilent for the cowl screws outside between the windshield and hood. 10mm socket/extentions, wrench There some other small sizes in this mix, I just don't recall the ductwrk hex screw sizes. If you don't have anything between the seats a bucket to sit on is a Godsend. It's best to sit directly in front of the cover but if not it's not a real issue. --------------------- If you have a digital camera, you might want to break it out and take a handfull of pics for reference. I have a shitload of them from my projects and it's a helluva lot easier to just look at that then it is to remember sometimes. ---------------------- The doghouse cover with the glovebox and drink tray will have to be removed, it's as simple as four phillips screws. The top two are visable above the door to the ash tray. Open it halfway and you'll see them. The bottom two are visable at the base. Remove these two first and note the large washers with the offset hole, these will have to go back on. The top two washers are standard size and make sure they go back on as well. It's tricky to get the top two back in but hold the screw on the screwdriver with one finger and it works great. You'll see what I mean later. Remove the top two. The design of the cover is as such as it kind of hooks on at the top so as long as it's set in place it won't drop. All four screws are the same size and length so don't sweat that. Under the cover there is ductwork run to the two small floor vents on either side of the glovebox. There is a piece that is critical you take note of how it's in there as you remove the cover. It's loose, like not screwed into anything, and held in by the way it slides over the other ducts. If it doesn't go back in right these vents won't work properly. It's easy to do, just pay attention. There is a wire attached to the back of the lighter attached to a black/orange wire combo. It has two latches clearly visable and easily manipulated. Be aware it's short and won't allow for the cover to move far without becoming taunt so be sure to support it until you get this unplugged. After that unless there's some other aftermarket item involved it should come right off. Set it aside and be careful with it, the tabs at the top and the corners can be damaged fairly easily. Now, you see the doghouse over the engine. This can stay. The objective was to get better access to the area than just the radio opening and to get to the bolt on the back of the radio. The radio cover/border under the pair of vents snaps on. Carefully get behind it and snap it off, like a one corner at a time. Work through it carefully so you don't scratch up everything. Once it's off you'll see two bolts on either side of the radio. As I said earlier, there's one on the back. Look to the bottm right of the radio from your perspective and you'll find a nut on a stud mounted to the radio. Remove the nut taking care not to lose it, it too will have to be put back on. Yea, it's a pain in the ass but put it back on when the time comes. Remove the two front bolts now, then the radio should slip out towards you. Dependent on the sound system there should be three or four plugs, plus the antenna. The radio is out. Go ahead and remove the cover under the steering column, four phillips screws visable and there 10mm bolts under it that hold the hood release and data terminal, pull these an make sure they go back where they were. get this out of the way and you can access some things from here. Make sure you get them all through this piece, the corners will break if you don't and yank on it. Back up at the radio look into the hole and you should be able to see where the motor is. If not readily visable go outside to the front and look into the cowl area where the wiper transmission is and the shaft will be visable where the motor connects. There are three bolts that hold the wiper motor in place inside, and a nut on the outside, in the transmission tray, that will have to be removed for it to come out. A couple of pics from my 91 teardown will assist in an idea of what's behind the dash and placement of the motor. Here's the target. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/g30vanman/Van Pics/91 G10 - Cue Ball/PB070014.jpg The pic doesn't have the wiring harness visable since I had pulled it already and will be something to be worked around. You can use some twine or zipties to accomodate a passage out with it just don't get silly pulling wires, investigate it thouroughly and tie the stuff back if you need to if you can. You may not need to, just an option. (You may be able to pull it out past the pedals as an option, but I think the harness is in the way.) The cowl removal is a little tricky. Due to the curvature of the piece and the hood/windshield you will have to manipulate the position of the hood to get it out without dinking the paint or bending it. It works, just work it with a procedure thought out carefully. Make sure to get a good seating on the torx driver in the holes. If you need to, and you probably will, clean them out with a small wire or toothpic like apparatus since once these get rounded out it's serious pain in the ass time. Just clean them if they are dirty and get a good seat to avoid this horror. They should be stainless so don't drop them, a magnet won't pick them up. If they're seized, put the driver in place straight and TAP it a couple of times to break it loose. Just don't be a gorilla with them. When you pull the screws note the rubber seal for the hood is between it and the firewall. (Make sure it goes back exactly as removed when reassembled.) There's other screws as well besides the ones outside, look it over and pull them all. If it's stuck, and it probably will be, use a screwdriver to pop it loose on the bottom of the cover where paint damage is minimized between the rubber and the cowl cover, not the rubber and the firewall. A paint breech on the firewall means a place for rust to take hold. You don't want that. Just pop it loose under the hood with the hood on the prop rod, then once loosened proceed with the removal as described earlier. You'll see what I mean easily enough. On the wiper motor there is a rubber mount on the cone that must be correctly done or it will leak. It's pretty simple so don't worry too much. Just make sure the seal and opening in the firewall are clean before putting it back in and it's seated properly. White lithiumgrease is recommended on the surface as well, just make sure it's seated. The ductwork under there can be manipulated a bit, and you may have to pull a couple of little hex head screws but just be sure to put it all back. Going back in with the stuff is pretty much a reversal of removing it, just remember the ducts in the doghouse cover and the loose piece. Couple more pics. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/g30vanman/Van Pics/91 G10 - Cue Ball/PB070012.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/g30vanman/Van Pics/91 G10 - Cue Ball/PB070013.jpg Second pic, don't concern yourself with the brown/white tubes, that was a note to myself and of no relevence to this operation aside of being there. Good luck, any questions just relay them through someone.
