What do you guys think? I've been shopping around recently and this was one thing I didn't think about before I started. I'm personally not a big fan of stainless or any kind of chromed look. What is the functional difference between "Matte blue" and "Matte black oxide" finish? Have you ever had experience with something like KimPro?
I prefer Stainless or Matte Hard Chrome. However, if you don't like the shiny finishes, you can't go wrong with simple black parkerizing.
Hmmm... I think Parkerized looks good. Or some other matte finish, maybe with just a hint of green to it. Or blue. Either will be functional and look good with any number of grips, ranging from a stock black plastic to the simulated ivory from the MARSOC 1911 to nice wood grips. Concealed carry isn't my area of expertise, so I don't know if a matte finish will adversely affect draw ease, vice stainless or a blued finish. But for me, that isn't a concern. (Especially on a full-sized 1911.)
It doesn't. Personally, I'm a fan of Duracoat. I do not like the camo and faux-camo finishes, but the single color finishes are exceedingly durable and weapons with the coat show zero sign of "holster wear" after many years of wearing them daily.
You...can...apply it yourself. However, I chose not to do so. I found a good gunsmith that's been doing it for years. I'm an amateur smith in my own right, but if I don't know what I'm doing, I don't want to screw it up. It'd be different if I had a junker to test it on first, but nothing in my collection is "junk." Duracoat is relatively cheap too. My smith charges a flat $120 for any handgun. Beats $250 a pop for hard chroming just a slide.
Yeah. I've heard good things about Duracoat. If you go through old "American Rifleman"s from the past year or two, a lot of them have little How-To articles, sponsored by Midway USA. I know they did at least one on applying Duracoat. Bottom line, if you have the right workspace and you are patient, methodical, and detail-oriented, the average person can apply it. Problem is I know I wouldn't be. If you really wanted to try it yourself though, and didn't feel like rummaging through old copies, I'm sure the people at Midway would talk you through it.
Ok, now for something more specific. I very much much want this weapon here: http://championfirearms.com/compone...acturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,67/ These are expensive, but I just can't help it. Bearing in mind that I don't plan to use this for concealed carry (i.e. no holster wear), how long could I expect this factory matte blued finish to last before needing touch ups/re-bluing?
The only difference between a "Custom II" and a "Royal II" is the finish. The Custom II has a matte blue while the Royal II a deeper, shinier blue comparable to modern day Smith Revolvers (not the Smiths of old that were mirror finished). Me, personally, I'd go ahead and spring for the TLE II. Front Strap checkering, factory night sights, and slightly higher quality internal components. But, with no holster wear, that Custom II's finish should last decades and decades.
I thought a lot about the TLE II and had already prepared a couple of follow up questions for you regarding it. First of all, what is the advantage to the front strap checkering (30 LPI)? Secondly, here's a price comparison for these variations: Kimber Custom II (matte blue): $661 Kimber Custom II night sights: $785 Kimber Custom II/TLE II(blued): $814 Are the seemingly minor upgraded features enough justify the price differences?
Ash and I talked this over for a couple of hours in chat the other night, but I thought I'd toss my reasons out here for the rest of you to discuss, agree, or disagree with. Checkered front strap: It increases weapon controlability. It's a lethal force encounter, you've made the decision to shoot, you're scared shitless, and your palms are sweating like crazy. What happens when wet skin slides over very, very slick steel? Night sights: I worked nights for the majority of my law enforcement career to date. I prefer nights. I've become a huge fan of night sights, and I've been very glad I had them. They're worth whatever they cost. Buy them. Custom II: I like the Custom II. I'd be proud to say that I owned a Custom II. However, the TLE II has slightly better innards (A Wilson shock buffer, an Ed Brown Guide Rod, etc.), and in my mind, it's worth the price difference, but if you just can't afford a TLE II, a Custom II is no slouch. Two tips for buying any 1911: #1 When you're holding one in the store, take one of your hands, grip the slide from the top, and wiggle it left and right respective to the gun. If it wiggles, don't buy it. The gun isn't fit propertly. #2 When you're holding on in the store, if the extractor isn't flush with the back of the slide, don't buy it. The gun isn't fit properly. You'll get a good gun from Springfield, Kimber, Sig, Smith and Wesson, or even Taurus. But, while mass produced, they're still fit by hand at the factory. If you can get a good final assembler that's in a good mood, you'll get a beautiful gun for the price. If you get a poor assembler or a good one in a bad mood, they may just be slamming them together. It'll probably function for a lifetime and never give you any worry, but I'm not gonna hand over my hard earned money for a gun that I think is substandard. Colt: A lot of people say that if it's not a Colt, it's not a 1911. I disagree with this. Those of you that have good Colts (Shoes, Forbin, etc.), I'm not disagreeing with you at all. But, I despite Modern Colts. Colt wants to give me a Springfield quality gun but charge me Les Baer price. While there's nothing wrong with Springfield's quality, it just ain't worth the same as a Les Baer, and because of this, I refuse to buy a new Colt.
Oh, I agree with you there. I wouldn't buy a modern Colt either. If I were to buy a 1911 today, it would be a plain Springfield GI .45.
Dan Wesson makes a match grade 1911 in 10mm. I have it as my daily carry piece. It is the best of both worlds. I get the best in handgun ammunition and the genius of John Moses Browning, Hallowed Be His Name, and a buttery smooth action at that.
You can get a Kimber for under $700? Intriguing... Off topic in many ways, I kind of like the look of the grips for the MARSOC .45s.
No offense intended, but if I can't solve my problem with 17 rounds of 230gr Hydra-Shok, I'm gonna need my AR or Shotgun anyways.